February 2010


Colour27 Feb 2010 05:05 am

Alyssa writes:

Hi! I actually have quite a problem… I’m seeking some advice. I have naturally dark blonde hair, but I’ve been highlighting it for quite some time now. My roots were growing out, and I decided to try Clairol’s Nice & Easy Root Touchup. (What a mistake!!!) Well, somehow, Clairol put black dye in the box of medium blonde root touchup. Needless to say, 2 1/2 inches of my roots were black and the rest of my hair light blonde. (This happened two days before my Mom’s wedding.) I’ve been to the salon three times since the incident. My roots are still a bit red and after adding more highlights, there is a lot of LIGHT blonde hair. The ends of my hair are a medium blonde color. I don’t know what to do next. Please help! I start a new job in two weeks and I just want to look normal again.

 
Dean responds:
Sorry to hear about your bad colour experience, but take comfort in the fact that even the professional colours we use get mixed up too (usually through lazy Hairdressers not paying attention). Without seeing what your hair actually looks like it’s a bit hard to give the exact advice, but I’ll give it a go. Firstly if this ever happens it imperative that you get to a salon within 24 hours. Hairdressers have access to a range of professional products to counteract such disasters. They are called “colour reductors”, meaning that they reduce the colour, but there is a small window of opportunity for these to work. I’ll explain:
When colour molecules enter the hair they attach themselves to the structure of the hair in small “chains” of colour. Over the next 24-48 hours, the colour molecules swell and lock themselves into the hair. This is the time when a reductors can be used. A reductor shrinks the molecules and allows them to be rinsed out. A soft peroxide is then emulsified through the hair to reactivate any remaining colour to see if any further processes are required. It can be a bit harsh on the hair but that can often be a lot better than living with a tragic colour.

Now it appears that your Hairdresser has gone with the “bleach it out” way of hairdressing and this is probably the only other way of getting out dark colour, whether it be in hilites or an all over application. The bleach will break down the artificial colour, but also the protein structure of the hair. Unfortunately it also brings out the undertones in the hair which is where the orange and brassiness comes from. Since the hair near the roots is lighter than the ends you now need to have your hair low-lited to match up the roots to ends. Alternatively it may be hilited and a corresponding medium to dark blonde semi-permanent placed inbetween the hilites to colour balance. The real trick is finding a Hairdresser who is good with colour and knows what to put on to counteract unwanted shades, fill where undertones are absent and get the colour right.

And it doesn’t end there! You will need to keep your hair in really good shape for it to hold the colour as the bleaching process makes the hair porous (meaning that artificial colour will fade out more quickly than on healthy hair). I would recommend Goldwell’s Moisture Definition Shampoo & Conditioner and Vivecap Color treatment. I ahve been using these for years now and the Vivecap treatment will help the structural damage in your hair and lock the colour in.

Hope this helps.

 

 

General17 Feb 2010 05:15 am